That’s probably the most tightly-guarded secret when you start getting into rebuildables. Which wire, how many turns, on what size of pin, are the turns close together or spaced out?
The easiest way is to get started in two steps. First make coils that will give you the vaping style you want, and secondly optimize your assemblies. To start with, you’d be better to use single coils instead of claptons or other complex coil designs. They’re easier to work with, and you can use any on-line calculator to find out how many turns you need for the wire you’re using and the power you want.
Start with simple assemblies, usually 5 or 6 turns on a 2.5 or 3 mm pin to get your hand in. Once you’ve managed assemblies like these, the principles are much easier to grasp and the differences become more obvious too. You can then try out more complex assemblies as you’ll have got the hang of it, and discovered what works and what doesn’t.
Sometimes you need a few tries before you find the best assembly, the one that gives the best results with an atomizer, refining as you go.
While most atomizers on the market cost from 30 to 60 Euro, for some models makers will happily charge you over 100 Euro. The question, then, is whether they’re worth the difference in price. The answer is not as straightforward as you might think.
Large-scale production models have made huge progress in recent years, and being able to compare their build quality with high-end models is no longer that unusual. And anyway, any differences between them are now pretty minimal. Gone are the days of having to break the bank to get a good quality atomizer, which is great news. At least it is for users. It’s not so good for manufacturers of high-end kit, who have to justify their prices through truly exceptional performance or with truly original design.
Nor can we ignore our own subjectivity when it comes to choosing an atomizer. Every decision is irrational to some extent: we might like an atomizer just because of the way it looks, or feel an emotional draw to a specific maker. Which is still an excellent reason to get a top-of-the-range model!
One potential advantage of rebuildables is that you can clean the coils instead of replacing them each time. This avoids having to make them again, which saves you a little time and energy, and a small amount of money.
The most effective method is to dry burn the coil. Take out the wick and just heat the coil until it glows. Repeat this several times, and rinse the coil under cold running water once it’s glowed for a few seconds. Then brush it with a suitable tool (like an old toothbrush), and finally dry it with a dry cloth or leave it to air dry. The result is pretty impressive: all the residue goes, leaving the metal looking like new and ready to use.
But be careful. You might notice that the colour of the coil has changed, and in fact its surface changes chemically at very high temperatures. This has led some scientists to say we shouldn’t use the dry burn method, and should replace clogged coils with new ones.